(CNN) — Strolling throughout the Charles Bridge or having a dinner beneath Prague’s well-known Astronomical Clock is just not one thing most locals would contemplate both enjoyable or bearable.

Unless, it seems, they do it in the center of a pandemic.

The restrictions on journey put in place due to the coronavirus have slashed the variety of guests to the Czech capital by greater than 73% in 2020, in accordance to the city’s official statistics. While disastrous for Prague’s economic system, the vacationer exodus was a revelation for a lot of of its residents who have been all of a sudden in a position to reclaim their city and luxuriate in its magnificence in a slower tempo.

Prague’s historic middle grew to become livable once more — and its political and group leaders try to discover a method to hold it that method even after the crowds of vacationers return.

“All of these beautiful places suddenly reemerged,” stated Matej Velek. “All the glitz, the cheap, tacky souvenirs and the flashing signs that try to lure you to spend money, all this stuff vanished incredibly quickly once the tourists disappeared.”

Velek, Prague born and bred, belongs to a rising contingent of locals attempting to revive the city’s many forgotten public areas. He is one among the workforce behind Kasarna Karlin, half group assembly spot, half a beer backyard with open air cinema, a playground and a restaurant in an deserted swimming pool. The venue occupies the enormous courtyard of disused navy barracks in Karlin, a neighborhood that was badly broken throughout Prague’s devastating 2002 floods.
This bar in Kasarna Karlin used to be a garage inside disused military barracks.

This bar in Kasarna Karlin used to be a storage inside disused navy barracks.

Dorota Velek/Wikimedia Commons

The state-owned constructing had been abandoned for years awaiting a attainable renovation sooner or later in the future when Velek and his workforce managed to persuade the authorities to enable an area nonprofit to use the venue for group and cultural functions till the redevelopment begins. Ever because it opened in 2017, it grew to become one among the neighborhood’s favourite spots. And whereas the advanced has seen quite a lot of a bureaucratic forwards and backwards involving varied authorities departments lately, Kasarna Karlin has grow to be one thing of a blueprint for group tasks — a lot in order that representatives of different cities go to the venue to get the know the way.

Kasarna Karlin is way from a lone star in the neighborhood. Less than 5 minutes stroll away, one other deserted constructing has not too long ago changed into Bar/ak, an artsy cafe that includes native musicians and artists. Down by the river, Harbour 18600 now hosts open-air cinema, music occasions and lectures in an area that used to be an unlawful dump website only a few years in the past.

Kasarna Karlin’s success amongst locals has earned it a spot in guidebooks like Lonely Planet. Slowly, it grew to become a spot the place residents combine with vacationers. That’s nonetheless uncommon in Prague. Locals have a tendency to steer clear of the most touristy locations, whereas guests hardly ever enterprise outdoors of the historic middle.

It’s one thing the city is eager to change. Prague has been a magnet for vacationers for a very long time. But their rising numbers have grow to be a fear for its residents, who really feel overrun by rowdy teams on the lookout for a giant night time out.

The Dox center features an airship-like structrure used as events space.

The Dox middle options an airship-like structrure used as occasions area.


Prague Mayor Zdenek Hrib informed CNN final 12 months that the city welcomed 9 million vacationers in 2019.

“That’s about the same as Rome, which is twice the size of Prague,” he stated, admitting that the swelling numbers of vacationers, some coming primarily to get together, have been inflicting issues.

Like different cities in comparable state of affairs, Prague has put in place a “nighttime mayor” whose process is to discover a higher method to deal with the crowds.

Hrib has additionally stepped up the makes an attempt to rid the city of fraudulent vacationer traps and visible air pollution and to regulate the likes of Airbnb. “These types of services have a very negative impact on the residents’ quality of lives, mostly because of noise, and they also make housing more unaffordable for young people, so finding a solution is a priority,” Hrib stated.

Hrib’s workforce is eager to reinvent Prague as a greater than only a bachelor get together vacation spot.

“We care the most for more conscientious tourists who respect the fact that tourism must not be detrimental to the lives of the locals,” he stated. “Prague simply cannot be just an open-air museum for tourists, we need to stop the outflow of locals from the city center.”

The overwhelming majority of worldwide guests does not enterprise past the historic city middle. But Hrib is eager to present them Prague has much more to supply — which it definitely does.

Cultural venues and occasions have been popping up seemingly in all places in Prague lately. Once obscure locations have been revamped into city hotspots — some with the assist of the city, others by impartial communities and volunteers.

The Rasin Riverside, south from the city middle, rose from a close to abandonment to fashionable hipster hangout to a mainstream vacationer vacation spot inside a decade. Some locals most well-liked the spot when it was nonetheless a bit tough round the edges and are moaning its evolution right into a extra polished area, however the riverbank’s rising reputation provides vacationers an opportunity to pattern one thing somewhat bit completely different.

Holesovice, a residential neighborhood throughout the river from Karlin, was additionally badly broken throughout the 2002 floods. And like Karlin, it too has been remodeled past recognition from a rundown place to an artsy district with loads to see and expertise.

The DOX Centre for Contemporary Art has grow to be the neighborhood’s epicenter of artwork because it first opened in a former manufacturing unit in 2008. Other venues mushroomed round. Vnitroblock, an unlimited industrial stylish cafe and an occasion area centered on design is simply 10 minutes stroll away. Around the nook, Jatka 78, previously a slaughterhouse, is now the place in Prague to see modern circus, avant-garde theater and dance.
Rasin Riverbank has been transformed from a rundown place to a popular hangout spot.

Rasin Riverbank has been remodeled from a rundown place to a preferred hangout spot.


The venue is at the moment present process refurbishment, however the present should — and is — occurring in a brief circus tent erected in the close by Prague Exhibition Grounds. Called Azyl78, the venue will likely be providing “asylum” for efficiency artists all through the summer season.

Jatka 78’s co-founder and director Štěpán Kubišta is especially pleased with the worldwide nature of the establishment he helped to construct. The venue usually hosts overseas troupes and is one among the few theaters in Prague serving locals and vacationers alike.

“Culture in Prague is still done mostly for and by the locals, there aren’t many international events, both in regards to the performers and the audience,” he stated. Of the dozen or so theaters funded immediately by the city, all however one are at the moment centered on Czech language drama and thus are off-limits to most guests. “If we want to attract tourists who are interested in culture rather just partying, we need to offer them more options,” he stated.

It’s a practice began by one among Prague’s most well-known residents, the nation’s former President Vaclav Havel. When he hosted Bill Clinton in 1993, he confirmed him round the fort, then took the then-President to a legendary, if considerably grubby, jazz membership Reduta.

The artwork cluster that has grown in Holesovice over the previous decade has grow to be one thing of an inspiration for different Prague neighborhoods.

“Holesovice is a great example of a neighborhood that has been revamped from the bottom up into almost an official art district … and although it has since become perhaps too gentrified, it has shown others that these types of projects make sense,” stated Marie Kasparova, the director of Za Trojku, a nonprofit that operates two publicly funded group tradition facilities in Prague’s Zizkov district.

Zizkov, as soon as often called the barely tough neighborhood mendacity beneath Prague’s well-known TV tower, has at all times had a various cultural scene. From the U Vystrelenyho Oka pub that has lengthy been the beating coronary heart of Prague’s underground scene, to impartial artwork galleries and the newly reopened occasions area in the functionalist Radost constructing, Zizkov, Kasparova says, has one thing for everybody.

She is trying to comply with Holesovice’s instance in introducing extra modern artwork into the district, whereas sustaining its enchantment to the neighborhood’s long-time residents. “When people walk into a gallery showing contemporary art, they can sometimes get a bit frightened, not sure what to make of it. We want to bring art to people in a way that isn’t scary, through themes they can relate to,” she stated.

To appeal to extra locals into the arts venue, Za Trojku has began organizing extra community-focused occasions. Later this month, it is internet hosting a mini competition of home vegetation and concrete gardening. Last 12 months’s occasion attracted millennials and pensioners alike. “We want to open up the space to the local people so that they know it’s here for them,” Kasparova stated. “If they get used to coming here for the events that appeal to them, like the houseplant swap, they might eventually come to see art they might have previously dismissed as something that’s not for them.”

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